Urban Conservation
Welcome to the Urban Conservation Page! You don't need to own a farm to make an impact on soil and water conservation. This page explores some of the things you can do on your own small lot to make a difference in conservation and to encourage wildlife to visit you. Another great place to check out is the Backyard Conservation Website at http:// www.nrcs.usda.gov/FEATURE/backyard/. It contains many practices like composting, tree planting, backyard ponds and wetlands, and much more.
Ten Things Homeowners Can Do to Protect Local Lakes and Streams
1. Properly Dispose of Pet Waste
Pet waste contains nutrients and pathogens that can pollute lakes and streams when it is not disposed of properly. Several options for properly disposing of pet waste include putting it in the trash, flushing it, or burying it. Putting it in the trash is a common practice as the landfill will prevent the pet waste from becoming a pollution problem. Another option is flush it down the toilet. The pollutants are removed in the wastewater process. The last option is to bury the waste or use an underground pet waste digester. Before burying or using a pet waste digester be sure the conditions are right. They should not be used were the water table is high, away from vegetable gardens, play areas and away from water bodies or wells. Pet waste should not be composted or used as a fertilizer in the garden. The pathogens will not be killed and are a health risk.
2. Maintain Septic Systems
It is important to keep your septic system in proper working order. Modern systems should not require much maintenance, but by pumping and inspecting the system it can prevent costly repairs or replacement. Here are some other tips:
- Be mindful of landscaping – Water loving roots of trees and shrubs can cause damage to the system. Do not direct water from buildings onto the drain field. This will keep the soils saturated and not allow the water to be absorbed into the ground.
- Don’t use the toilet as a garbage disposal – Don’t flush paper towels, coffee grounds, disposable diapers, tampons, sanitary napkins, facial tissues or other garbage. They will clog your septic system.
- Don’t overload the septic system – Septic systems are not well equipped to handle large volumes of water. Reduce water use by fixing leaking faucets, use low flow faucets, toilets and shower heads and wait until dishwasher and washing machine are full before running them.
- Be careful with garbage disposals – Garbage disposals increase the amount of solids added to the septic tank, increasing the pumping requirement. Do not dump grease down the drain, greases clog the system.
- Don’t pour hazardous materials down the drain – Check with the Rice County Solid Waste Department for proper disposal of hazardous materials like pharmaceuticals, motor oils, gasoline, paint thinners, varnish, pesticides, paint, stains or other materials can cause damage to the septic systems and pollute ground water.
- Minimize use of heavy duty cleaners – Heavy cleaners kill beneficial bacteria that break down solids.
- Protect the system from damage – Do not drive vehicles, park cars or built structures on the system.
- Perform regular maintenance – Regularly hire a professional to inspect and pump the system to prevent damage.
For information on septic systems or Rice County ordinances contact the Rice County Environmental Health Administrator.
3. Recycle and Dispose of Household Chemicals Properly
The best option for dealing with hazardous materials is to limit their use. Hazardous wastes should be disposed of at the Recycling Center/Landfill on 145th Street East approximately one mile east off of State Highway 3. Hazardous materials like motor oils, gasoline, paint thinners, varnish, pesticides, paint, stains, etc. can be disposed at the Recycling Center/Landfill. The Recycling Center/Landfill also accepts tires, batteries, major appliances and fluorescent lamps.
Pharmaceuticals should not be flushed down the toilet. For disposal, remove the patients name from the container. For pills or capsules add water to partially dissolve, add table salt, flour, coffee grounds or cat litter to liquids. Place the container in an empty margarine or yogurt tub so the contents cannot be seen. Place container in garbage can.
Contact the Solid Waste Department at 507.332.7730 for hours or more information.
4. Plant Native Vegetation
Native plants are those plants that were present before European settlement. Native plants have adapted to the conditions in the area and are tolerant of drought and flooding. Native plants work well for prairie or wetland restorations but can also used in back yards for wildlife habitat. Once native plants are established they are low maintenance, do not need watering, fertilizer or pesticides. Check http://www.riceswcd.org/Documents/2008Native%20Seed%20Dealers.xls for native seed dealers, or ask your local nursery for native plants.
Consider using native grasses for your lawn. A common variety of grass used in Minnesota is Kentucky bluegrass which is not native to North America. There are many varieties of Kentucky bluegrass that are suited for different regions. Kentucky bluegrass is not the best grass for Minnesota, because it has high requirements of water that do not occur naturally. Other varieties that are native to Minnesota include: western wheatgrass, prairie junegrass, tufted hairgrass or green needlegrass. When considering native grasses consider the soil preference, drought tolerance, trampling resistance and mowing tolerance.
5. Compost or Properly Dispose of Leaves
Organic matter like grass clippings and leaves add excess nutrients to water bodies. When grass clippings or leaves are left in the curb and gutter or blown in lakes and rivers they cause the build up of excess nutrients, causing excess weed growth and eutrophication. Instead of leaving organic materials in curb and gutter systems or water bodies, they should be composted. Composting is the process that turns organic wastes into nutrient rich humus. Items that can be composted include: grass clippings, leaves, straw, vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds, tea bags, fireplace ashes, eggshells, shredded paper, and sawdust. Items that cannot be composted include: dog or cat manure, diseased or invasive plants or meat scraps. The finished compost has many benefits including: retains soil moisture, reduces the need for fertilizers, and prevents erosion.
If you do not want start your own compost, you can bring your materials to several compost sites in the area. For more information contact:
Rice County Recycling Hotline – 507.332.6833
Faribault – 507.334.2222
Lonsdale – 507.744.2327
Morristown – 507.685.2302
Northfield – 507.645.8833
6. Limit Lawn Irrigation to When and Where Water is Needed
The amount of water needed for lawns depends on several factors including: type of plant cover, type of soils, amount of organic matter, soil compaction, weather, slope and water application method.
Some tips for reducing water usage:
- Use mulch to retain moisture. Wood chips, grass clippings, rocks, gravel, peat moss and straw all can be used to reduce water usage.
- Early morning is the best time to water. Watering later in the day leads to high levels of evaporation and damages the lawn.
- Use trickle irrigation and drip irrigation systems to reduce water use. Trickle or drip irrigation more efficiently place the water where it is needed.
- Steeper slopes require slower irrigation to prevent runoff and allow for infiltration.
- Be mindful of weather conditions; avoid hot, windy or rainy conditions.
7. Limit Use of Pesticides and Fertilizers
When using fertilizers on your lawn it is important to use only the amount of fertilizer needed for the plant species growing on the piece of land. Excess nutrients that are applied to the land can be washed off into water bodies. The best way to determine how much fertilizer is needed is to test the soil. Stop by the Rice Soil and Water Conservation District to pick up a soil testing kit that can be sent to the University of Minnesota. They will determine the pH and soil fertility and send recommendations on the appropriate fertilizer needed for use (garden, lawn, etc.). A common application rate of 0.5 lb N/1000 sq ft of nitrogen (N) is recommended for establishment of a lawn. Established lawns typically require 1 to 3 lbs N/1000 sq ft. Once you have recommendations here are some tips for fertilizer use:
- Phosphorus fertilizers can only be used on establishing lawns. Use on established lawns is illegal. Phosphorus is the middle number in the grade, i.e. 25-0-12.
- Do not use fertilizer on frozen ground
- Do not fertilize sidewalks, roads, driveways, etc. Clean up any fertilizer that is not on the lawn.
- Maintain a buffer strip between water bodies, allowing the grass to grow up.
- Do not over apply fertilizer. Excess fertilizer will not help your lawn; it will only pollute local water bodies.
Consider alternatives for pesticide use. For example, to limit the use of pesticides and promote a healthy lawn, use the correct amount of fertilizer, proper watering techniques, and cut at the proper height. A healthy lawn is better equipped to fight against weeds. Check out http://www.pesticide.org/factsheets.html#alternatives for alternatives to using pesticides when addressing common pest problems.
Before using a pesticide, correctly identify the problem species. Read the directions carefully to determine that pesticide adequately addresses the problem species and not other species. Look for pesticides that do not have residual activity in the soil.
8. Wash Cars on Your Lawn Using Phosphorus Free Detergent
If you wash your car in the driveway, chances are that the soap and water you use will run to the nearest storm drain, which usually flows to a pond, stream, or river. The phosphorus in the soap leads to problems; including algal blooms, that depletes the oxygen supply and leads to fish kills. To prevent problems from washing your car, wash you car on the grass where the water can be absorbed into the ground. When choosing detergents look for zeolite, alternative builders or phosphorus free. Avoid detergents that contain STPP (sodium tri-polyphosphates), phosphate builders or polyphosphates.
9. Landscape Your Yard to Keep Water on the Lot and Minimize Irrigation
When landscaping, look for ways to reduce the amount of irrigation needed:
- Allow your grass to develop deeper root systems by letting your grass grow to its proper height (check the variety to determine the proper height).
- Use native grass varieties that are tolerant to drought conditions.
- Use aeration to allow water to infiltrate on compacted soils.
- Plant a native garden, using plants that are tolerant to local conditions.
- Use a raingarden to collect the rain water from impervious surfaces.
- Use pervious pavers to allow water to soak in rather than run off.
Planning a new driveway, parking lot, or sidewalk? Traditional asphalt, concrete, and pavers are all impervious, meaning that virtually all water that falls on them will run off somewhere else. The more impervious surfaces you have in a watershed, the quicker a lake or stream will rise when it rains. With these surfaces, we also end up with less water soaking into the ground to recharge our groundwater systems. But now, thanks to technology, we can have the best of both worlds. There are products available now that allow water to infiltrate (soak in) but still maintain the characteristics of traditional asphalt or pavers. 
10. Collect Rain Water in a Rain Barrel or Raingarden
Rain Barrels 
Want to do your part to reduce stormwater runoff? Would you like to have a way to store rain water for your garden or flowers? A rain barrel is a great way to save water and "go green". But you may find that using rain water instead of city or ground water will really help your plants thrive. Most say its because groundwater is "hard" whereas rain water is soft. The barrels we sell are ready to hook up to your downspout and have a filter sock to trap debris and keep mosquitoes out. The barrels come with an overflow hose that you can direct away from your house. They hold about 50 gallons, but if that's not enough, buy a second or third barrel and connect them together for increased capacity. Our price is $50 plus tax. If you would like to purchase a barrel, call us at 507-332-5408 or stop by our office in Faribault. Don't like blue? The barrels can be painted to blend in with your house! (Please call ahead to ensure availability)
Raingardens
A raingarden is a great way to reduce stormwater runoff and attract birds and butterflies. The concept is simple...dig a small depression in your yard to collect runoff from your roof, driveway, or other hard surface and plant native vegetation in it to filter the runoff and allow the water to soak into the ground, rather than adding to the storm sewer system. Did you know that a one inch rainfall on an average sized home adds up to 900 gallons of water running off the roof and into nearby streams and lakes? Now think about how many houses, driveways, and parking lots there are and it is easy to see why our rivers rise so fast when it rains.
Want to know more about building a raingarden? Email Danielle or call her at 507-332-5408.
Here are some useful links to learn more about urban conservation:
The Minnesota Erosion Control Association